Sara Sozzani Maino is a key figure in the fashion industry, dedicated to supporting emerging designers. As the Head of Special Projects at Vogue Italia and the founder of Vogue Talents, she has played a major role in discovering and promoting new talent. She carries forward the legacy of the Fondazione Sozzani, working to preserve and promote culture, photography, and fashion. Through her work, she remains an influential voice in the industry.
Hello, Sara, and welcome to Modic Magazine! Your career started at iconic institutions like 10 Corso Como and Vogue Italia. Was there a defining moment, early on, that made you realize fashion was your calling, or was it a more gradual realization?
I believe it was a gradual realization that began in my youth. I often say that it wasn’t so much that I chose fashion, but rather, fashion chose me. I think it all started in the mid-90s when life had a different rhythm, much slower and more deliberate. There weren’t any social media platforms, and the internet was only emerging. That period allowed me to explore and truly understand my passions and interests. It gave me the chance to discover what I loved and what I was genuinely passionate about. During this time, while I was working in the fashion department and assisting as a stylist, I began researching opportunities for the younger generation. It was an era when young creatives didn’t have much visibility or space. That became my focus, my dedication. I recognized early on how fortunate I was, someone had opened a door for me and given me a chance to start my journey. That person was Franca Sozzani, who was not only an influential figure but also my aunt.
At the same time, I constantly asked myself: if someone had given me this opportunity, who would extend the same chance to the next generation? I’ve always believed that the younger generation holds the key to our future. That realization became my mission: to create opportunities for talented individuals from around the world, giving them a platform to showcase their work and have their voices heard.
In an industry that evolves so fast, what sources of inspiration and resources do you rely on to stay in tune with innovations, emerging designers, and cultural shifts?
This is something I feel deeply passionate about, as I’ve always traveled extensively around the world. I firmly believe that talent can be found, not necessarily everywhere, but it’s something that requires effort to source and scout. I’ve always been curious and open-minded, constantly looking around for possibilities, even among the countless individuals who reach out to me. I make it a point to explore everything, drawing resources and inspiration not only from others in the industry but also from those striving to create a better future. I genuinely believe that, especially in today’s world, we all share a responsibility for our actions and the impact of what we do. For people like me or others who have a platform or visibility, it’s crucial to seize the opportunity to provide chances to others. Setting a positive example is vital. For me, it’s about giving visibility to meaningful projects that hold value and convey messages for the next generation, as well as for future consumers. Staying informed about what’s happening is always essential, but it’s equally important to offer a clear perspective on the direction I’m taking. Ultimately, for me, it all comes down to education and responsibility.
You’ve mentored countless emerging talents over the years. Beyond creativity, what other qualities or skills do you believe indicate a designer’s long-term potential?
There are various ways to view designers and creative individuals, especially since we’re no longer talking exclusively about the fashion industry. While quality remains crucial, today, it’s no longer just about creating beautiful clothes. It’s about the storytelling, the meaning and purpose behind the project. For me, it’s essential to support and shine a light on projects that, as I mentioned earlier, hold value and convey messages of change. These projects exemplify that things can be done the right way, all while considering those who, for social or political reasons, may not have the same opportunities. It’s also about recognizing initiatives that go beyond their own goals to uplift others, whether through empowering women or supporting individuals living in difficult, often invisible circumstances. I believe this approach is incredibly important and holds the power to inspire meaningful progress.
Do you think for a young designer at the beginning of his career? Is it important to know more about the technical stuff or a mix of technical and creativity?
Talent is essential. While creativity is crucial, talent must be expressed in diverse and meaningful ways. I believe it’s not just about talent alone, it’s about how you use it to drive change, express a vision, and foster the evolution of a project that integrates cultural and educational initiatives.
Reflecting on the beginning of your career, what specific experiences or mentors helped shape your ability to connect with and guide young designers?
Absolutely. My mentor has always been Franca Sozzani, with whom I had the privilege of working for over 20 years. She was a constant source of inspiration, always believing in the younger generation and the power of creativity. For me, she was both a cultural and professional guide, a true mentor. Everything she did served as an example, and following in her footsteps became my most valuable learning experience. That was, without a doubt, my greatest school, shaping the person I am today.
Beyond that, my values have also played a pivotal role. I believe that, in today’s world, values are sometimes overlooked or even lost. When the younger generation asks me for advice, what to do, how to do it, I always encourage them to follow their passions and their hearts. It’s essential to listen to others, but ultimately, you must trust your heart and your beliefs. Doing so makes it easier to discover who you want to be and what you want to achieve.
What advice do you give young designers who want to integrate environmental responsibility into their brand, especially as they face limited resources?
As I mentioned earlier, it’s undoubtedly true that it can be incredibly challenging for the younger generation to break into this industry. What I always emphasize is the importance of the story behind what you’re aiming to achieve. It’s not just about the final product—it’s about creating projects that have the power to educate others. It’s about making your perspective clear and helping people understand that things can be done with purpose and meaning. This approach is crucial because it demonstrates that your work has both value and a defined scope. It ties back to what I said earlier about staying true to your principles and values. This foundation is especially important at the start of your journey, as it helps you define who you want to be and the direction you want to take.
Do you think the industry’s recent moves toward inclusivity reflect a deeper shift, or do you see a risk of this becoming a passing trend?
Well, this ties into the ongoing conversation about inclusivity. Everyone talks about it, but there’s still a long way to go. That said, the younger generation has always been particularly sensitive to this issue, and I believe it’s something that needs constant attention and commitment. Inclusivity is not just a concept, it’s a crucial part of our lives, and that makes it incredibly important. This is a strong statement that the younger generation embodies, and the fashion industry is gradually working toward it. However, progress is slow, and at times it feels as though inclusivity is treated as a trend. But it cannot and should not be a trend. It must be a daily practice, a consistent and genuine effort. While big brands play an essential role, it’s not just up to them. The younger generation also has a significant part to play. There’s still a lot to be done, but I believe we’re moving in the right direction.
How do you envision the fashion industry evolving if inclusivity becomes a permanent value at every level—from design to marketing?
I believe it ties back to everything I’ve mentioned so far. Whenever someone embarks on creating something, a collection, an application, a project, or a platform, it’s essential that it carries the value of education. It should help people understand how things are made and how they can be improved or changed. It’s not just about creating something for its own sake or merely generating profit. It’s about having a deeper purpose and, most importantly, giving back. For me, giving back has always been a fundamental part of the process and something I deeply value.
With consumer preferences increasingly blending physical and digital experiences, how do you see VR and AR transforming fashion retail?
Technology has brought significant changes to the industry. It offers immense potential and allows us to achieve a great deal. At times, it can feel a little daunting, especially with the rise of artificial intelligence, which requires us to approach it with caution. However, technology also enables us to streamline processes, cutting out unnecessary steps that in the past led to overproduction and inefficiencies. When used correctly, technology has the power to improve many aspects of the industry. The new generation must be educated on how to use it wisely, not just as a tool for superficial purposes. Take Instagram, for instance; while it can be an excellent platform, it’s often used simply for show. If leveraged thoughtfully and intentionally, technology has the potential to bring about meaningful changes within the industry.
Do you believe the renewed interest in in-store shopping is a signal that consumers are looking for deeper connections to brands?
Consumers have shifted their perspective. It’s no longer about buying a brand simply for the sake of owning it; it’s about understanding what they’re purchasing. That’s why storytelling has become so crucial. Today’s consumers want to know more about the products they buy, who made them, how they were produced, and where they come from. It’s clear that consumers are evolving, and we must continue raising awareness and fostering communication. When someone makes a purchase, they are already taking an action and bearing responsibility for that decision. This is a vital point to emphasize. The industry is undoubtedly going through a challenging period, and while social and political factors contribute to these difficulties, much of it also stems from the changing attitudes of consumers.
Do you believe both brands and consumers can drive the industry to be truly sustainable, and what changes are still needed to achieve that?
This is a complex issue because true sustainability, 100% sustainability, doesn’t exist. It’s about striving for a better future and working to create less harm. The reality is that we don’t need more things on the market, but this is part of the process of life, of capitalism, and everything that comes with it. I believe it’s crucial now to focus on projects that make sense—not just creating for the sake of it but developing something that raises awareness and educates people. I do think progress is being made in this direction, but there needs to be much more communication about what’s being done. At the same time, we must address the issue of greenwashing, which makes this process even more challenging. That’s why education is so important, it’s the key to navigating these complexities and fostering genuine change.
What is your vision for a fashion industry that has fully embraced environmental and social consciousness?
It’s very much a work in progress. We must constantly strive to make change happen by moving in the direction of greater responsibility, better practices, and increased awareness. This is the approach we need to adopt. By doing so, something that is already beginning to take shape, we can see that consumers are gradually shifting their attitudes toward consumption. This shows that the awareness being created is having an impact, and it’s crucial to continue this momentum to drive further change.
Of course, there will always be challenges. Some things won’t work, such as certain rules and laws that might restrict what people want to do. In the past, the industry lacked many of these regulations, but now they’re starting to emerge. These developments are essential, as they will help guide the industry and its people in the right direction.
A letter to your future self. What would you write?
I aim to always be passionate and responsible, ensuring that everything I do, whether through my work or the foundation of my family, serves as a positive example. I aim to inspire the new generation, reinforcing that the path they are on is the right one. Supporting education, which I believe is fundamental, and continually raising awareness are at the core of my values. This is the message I want to carry forward and remind myself of every day.
Interviewed by Andrada Negru