Paris has always been synonymous of glamour, style and fashion. It is not surprising that it is the epicentre of Fashion, especially Haute Couture. In this new edition, which recovers a certain part of the physical public in its shows, the great international names of fashion meet on stages in the French capital. Haute couture is no longer conceived as classicism and simplicity, a trend of designers is committed to a transgressive line within this preconceived world. With Balenciaga and Maison Margiela as major absentees, today we review four of the best representative collections of these two movements: The classicism of tradition and the avant-garde in couture.
#ModicReview: Tradition vs. Vanguard at HC Week SS2022
Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry had his first show ahead of him in front of the Schiaparelli house and it was one of the most acclaimed of the week. Through already iconic silhouettes that border on Surrealism, the egemonic triumvirate of white, black and gold materialized a collection that defies the classic patterns of Haute Couture. The drama of the volumes and the luxury close to oppulence is the legacy that is beginning to be characteristic of the brand, all framed in artistic structures and details in relief. Avant-garde masterpieces on the femenine silhouette and her accesories.
Jean Paul Gaultier
If there is a maison representative of haute couture savoir fare, it is Gaultier. With Glenn Martens at the front of the creative division, the proposal was expected to be groundbreaking and avant-garde. Without departing from the path that Jean Paul has wisely and masterfully marked for all these years, the silhouettes evoked the best patterns of the enfant terrible. Gothic sirens crossed the catwalk between volumes and iconic corsets. Overlays in vaporous fabrics and monochrome looks in a collection worth mentioning. A concept who drinks from the tradition for bet to the future of the couture.
#ModicReview: Tradition vs. Vanguard at HC Week SS2022
Christian Dior
The french maison continued to pursue the utmost purity in its new Haute Couture collection for Spring-Summer 2022. Always enhace the handcraft and the tradition of the haute couture. Organza, lamé and white clear fabrics contrast with the iconic black, like night and day. Layers and straight cuts with a minimalist aura. Sober looks enhanced by the craftsmanship of embroidery and gemstones, betting on the most classic and basal elegance, pure and without artifice or pretensions.
Chanel
As has been a tradition since her appointment as Creative Director, Virginie Viard presented a timeless, relaxed collection for the house of Chanel at the parisian Grand Palais, where the most iconic pieces of the brand such as tweed, embroidery, navy stripes, beads and the classic cuts form an aesthetic tribute. A fresh, elegant and sophisticated collection, typical of the Chanel spirit, in which past and present come together, inspired by the great creatives who elevated the brand to the top.
#ModicReview: Tradition vs. Vanguard at HC Week SS2022
Pics courtesy of the Brands.