In times of a new normal, adaptation is the path of progress. Haute Couture Week is the main focus, a point of light that we have among the gray days that we live worldwide. An appointment that allows us to escape and dream, giving us a colorful pallette of hope.
Behind closed doors, fully digitized and with notable absences such as Ralph & Russo, Elie Saab and Jean Paul Gaultier, the designers have presented their collections in the framework of Paris, where sophistication is taken to a higher level. Today we carry out a review about the best collections made by the different Maisons.
#ModicReview: Haute Couture Week SS2021
Christian Dior was a fan of Tarot, which he consulted for his calm and restlessness; this is precisely what inspires the new Dior collection. From the hand of Maria Grazi Chiuri, the great Maison presents a mystical and ethereal collection, extremely elegant with royal airs of the Major Arcans and with touches of the past. A golden fantasy full of embroidery, lace and sheer fabrics.
Chanel and its director, Virginie Viard, recreate the guests of a family event in the French countryside. As exceptional spectators at the Grand Palais, iconic faces of the maison such as Penélope Cruz and Carlota Casiraghi. The Maison moves between lace, its fantastic tweed and very garçon looks evoking the style of Coco Chanel, chiffon and crochet crafts. Simple silhouettes finished off with floral compositions as accessories to evoke that rural and relaxed point. A key to chic and fresh style with the purest Chanel signature.
Valentino plays to look to the future in Couture for the next season. `Code Temporal´ is the name that Pierpaolo Piccioli gives to this collection in which the color palette travels from the most sophisticated nudes, clear and dark tones to metallic or apple green. Noble materials such as linens, cashmere, silk crepes are masterfully mixed creating the effect of being made with contemporary and avant-garde materials. A timeless collection that includes oversizes, volumes or genderless style.
Giambattista Valli plays at sculpting volumes into creations that transport us to Seville, its culture and its Alcázar fortress. We travel with the designer to his memory of the Andalusian city, where the ruffles, tulle, bows, flowers and the mix of embroidery recreate current and contemporary princely silhouettes. Again the Andalusian culture serves as a reference to Haute Couture, where Seville serves as a reference where cultures come together.
Fendi was one of the most anticipated shows of the week, since it had a new creative director: Kim Jones, creative in turn of the Dior Homme line. The artistic presentation did not disappoint, a bucolic recreation of fairytales stories and feminine sensuality. Surrounded by Tops like Demi Moore, Cara Delevigne, Bella Hadid, Kate Moss, her daugther Lily or Naomi Campbell; It presented a tribute to Virginia Woolf, novels and 1920s elegance are recreated in embroidery, satins, lace and marbled fabrics fused between transparencies, classic cuts and deconstructions.
GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ
Giorgio Armani, a pioneer in closed-door shows, brings us ‘In Omaggio a Milano’, a look at the empty capital of Fashion, in a continuous search for beauty through Fashion. Sober and timeless, the masculine silhouettes with a touch of transparencies were visible among dresses that once again transport us to the classic cuts of fashion, where tulle and taffeta frame the beaded embroidery.
#ModicReview: Haute Couture Week SS2021
Schiaparelli is one of the most viral firms of the year. After dressing Lady Gaga at the Investiture ceremony of the new US President Joe Biden last week, Daniel Roseberry presents a collection where almost caricatured gold accessories take center stage in oversized, masculine looks and structured corsets guarantee empowerment feminine of the post pandemic, where the woman wears straight lines but does not go unnoticed.
IRIS VAN HERPEN
Iris Van Herpen is an example of avant-garde mastery in haute couture. `Roots of Rebirth´ is the designer’s bet to show that progress is unstoppable. The 3D designs show that haute couture has a new path to tackle. Nature inspires a living collection, where forms through movement seem to come to life in the female silhouette. The final touch was the supermodel Natalia Vodianova who majestically closed the collection.
Stéphane Rolland bets once again on his Spanish muse Nieves Álvarez to give life and movement to his collection for the next season. Velázquez’s Meninas in the Spanish Golden Age was the leitmotif of the collection. Tunics with a train, corsets, gold embroidery and maxi volumes in neutral tones make sophistication a whole with women. Once again, Spain is the source of inspiration for the greats of couture.
Viktor & Rolf is one of the most avant-garde bets of the week. The creators define the collection as a ‘Couture Rave’, full of positive energy and power, as opposed to what we are suffering. Eclectic creations where each piece of the look can interact separately. Recycled and rearranged fabrics to create new looks, voluminous skirts that contrast with bras, bows and beaded lace fit like a puzzle in circus-mood compositions.
S.R. STUDIO LA. CA.
Sterling Rubi Studio bring to Paris the contemporaneity of their creations, inspired by the wear and tear that the US has suffered in recent events. The designs have a ghostly and ambiguous touch, where the intuitive is more present than the real, with a pesimist and destructed touch. Volumes, handcrafts and ethereal garments, an experiment in haute couture from Los Angeles presented at the Fashion Capital.